The Evolution Of The KLM Uniform

KLM is one of the world’s oldest and most recognisable airlines, founded on October 7, 1919. Through the years, its iconic blue livery and uniform have changed little, making the Dutch flag carrier and its cabin crew instantly recognisable worldwide.

While the airline may have first taken to the skies on May 17, 1920, it didn’t employ its first onboard steward, Theo Boyeng, until October 7, 1934. Boyeng had experience in the international hotel industry and later in shipping before becoming one of the first three ‘cabin attendants’ employed at KLM.

One of the first female KLM cabin crew was Nel de Vrieze. In the October 1959 edition of the airline’s internal magazine, the ‘Wolkenridder’, she was interviewed about her work. “If I ever thought that I would be the only air hostess, then I would have been in for a surprise,” she said. “No fewer than 300 people were invited to apply. Following the first selection, there were twenty candidates left. During a flight in a Fokker, we were tested for our ability to respond to different situations. Later, on the ground, we were subject to another psychological test.”

Little is known about the first two women’s uniforms, but we know they were black, like the men’s. The lapel of the double-breasted jacket bore the words “Air Hostess.” The coat was worn over a plain white blouse, accessorised with a small tie and a beret to top it off.

It is also unknown who designed these uniforms. The exquisite craftsmanship suggests that they were likely made by Dutch tailors from Amsterdam, who tailored the uniforms to fit each stewardess perfectly.

Around 1937, the female uniform was altered to resemble a business suit with slight adjustments. The jacket was no longer double-breasted but had a single button. The lapel still bore the words “Air Hostess,” and the beret was replaced by a small hat.

Post War Apparel

After the war, from 1948, cabin crew wore a grey-blue uniform with a matching cap, which was later replaced by a small hat. The wings badge appeared for the first time, and the titles “Stewardess” and “Air Hostess” were removed.

The pale blue brand hue was quickly established, and as brand ambassadors, the crew were dressed in structured blazers, smart skirts and dynamic, angular pillbox hats. The cabin crew presented an image of glamorous travel and quality service for the most stylish passengers.

The Amsterdam fashion house Gerzon designed the uniform that stewardesses wore from 1957. This three-piece uniform was somewhat basic and conservative, consisting of a pencil skirt, jacket, and small hat.

In 1962, a second hat was added, nicknamed “het kaasbolletje,” the cheese ball. This dark blue uniform was worn over a white blouse and accompanied by white gloves. It also included a pale blue and beige checked summer dress designed for the tropics. The uniforms were hand-made by specialised tailors.

While many airlines took 1960s fashion on board, including miniskirts and hot pants, KLM maintained strict uniform and hairstyle regulations. Skirts were to be worn to the knee and not above, and stewardesses could choose from just six hairstyles.

In 1967, KLM’s uniform was part of a broader revamp, aptly named “New Look”, which included tableware, meals and in-flight service. The uniform was grey-blue and was the last in which dark blue was the dominant colour.

One striking feature was the off-white blouse, with a round collar instead of the usual upright one. The blouse had spectacular sunburst stitching emanating from the collar. The jacket, with its three buttons, was also more closely fitted, and the skirt was shorter. The stewardesses wore special pinafores called “Kazaks,” available in different colours when serving dinner. The designer of the “New Look” uniform is unknown.

Sky Blue 70s

The airline introduced its iconic sky blue uniform in 1971. It was created by a group of designers at the Fashion Academy in Arnhem, which is connected to the Konersmann company in Amsterdam.

The female crew had more choices, including a sleeveless dress or a pinafore with buttons. The uniform included a jacket, blouse, serving dress, overcoat, and a new model hat. The bright-yellow scarf added a gorgeous accent to the look.

This “Feel Sure” range was made from Trevira 2000, one of the era’s popular and easy-to-clean synthetic materials. You could wash and hang-dry it. No ironing was required, as uniform design shifted from made-to-measure to off-the-peg.

Four years later, it was time for another change. This was the first time a designer’s name was attached to the uniform. The designer was Wim van Hoek.

Although brown appeared in the uniform, KLM blue remained the dominant colour. The uniform consisted of 13 pieces and was classical in style, including a medium-length skirt with four pleats at the front. The blouse was white with a pattern of dots and birds in brown and blue. A collarless jacket was worn over the blouse, and a scarf in the same print as the blouse was worn. Topping it all off was a beret nicknamed “the egg cup.”

The summer uniform consisted of a brown cotton skirt with a pattern of blue birds. This garment wasn’t popular with the crew; many felt the skirt lacked elegance. The wing badge on this uniform also had stripes, indicating the crew member’s rank.

Acceptable In The Eighties

On March 28, 1982, a new uniform was introduced, designed by the House of Nina Ricci in France. This uniform reflected the trends of the 1980s with its broad, padded shoulders and colourful accents in the scarf. The skirt had a long slit at the front and back. The light-blue blouse, featuring the KLM logo woven into the fabric, was available with both long and short sleeves, as well as a round or raised collar. The ranking stripes were subtly incorporated into the sleeve. This uniform also had a hat, though the crew were no longer obliged to wear it. Consequently, very few did.

Because the Nina Ricci uniform was popular, KLM decided not to design a new one but to commission an update on the 1982 uniform.

Cabin attendants now had a choice of two skirts: one with a flared hem and the other with a straight hem. One striking item was the uniform jacket, which had a round collar and no lapels. The broad, padded shoulders ensured a sharp, angular silhouette. The ranking stripes were visible around the cuff of the sleeve, trimmed with a silver band, as they are today.

This was also the first uniform without a hat. It included a voluminous winter coat, nicknamed the “Bea coat” after Queen Beatrix, who wore garments similar to those used for public engagements.

Cabin attendants could knot their scarves any way they pleased, adding an elegant personal touch to the uniform. The Nina Ricci design was worn from 1990 to 2010, making it the longest-running uniform in KLM history.

Time For Change

In 2010, the Dutch couturier Mart Visser took over from Nina Ricci. He added an orange touch to the uniform, symbolising KLM’s Dutch roots. The jacket features orange trimming, an extra stripe on the senior purser’s sleeve, and a colour accent on the scarf.

The uniform consists of a jacket, two skirts, a waistcoat, and trousers. The latter is unique, as this is the first KLM uniform with trousers for female staff. The current uniform is known for its feminine, elegant lines and modern look.

Visser designed a capsule wardrobe of 11 items, including a jacket, trousers, two styles of skirt (A-line or pencil), a white blouse, a shawl that can be worn nine different ways, and a scarf. The new outfit uses his fondness for accentuating the body and has ’a bit of sexiness thrown in’.

The uniforms had to be comfortable, fit sizes 32 to 52, and be suitable for all seasons. Extensive wearability and comfort trials were conducted, with crew feedback being paramount to the final designs. Although he was largely given a free rein, there were some stipulations, one of which was that Visser used the same KLM trademark blue material.

The new designs took to the air for the first time on March 29, 2010, and since then, the classy and sophisticated royal blue outfit has been making an impression everywhere it goes.

Nina Ricci’s uniform does, however, continue to fly today, as the textiles from the discarded uniforms were, for a time, woven into the carpets used in the cabins of KLM’s new aircraft.

In May 2024, the airline further updated its uniform policy, offering a more relaxed offering to its frontline staff members. This included the introduction of KLM-branded trainers, which both flight and cabin crew were permitted to wear onboard. The airline said that the move would promote comfort during work and support well-being.

Which of the airline’s previous looks were your favourite? Tell us in the comments below.

To read more about cabin crew couture, click here.

© Confessions of a Trolley Dolly by Dan Air